So how do you know your roof is in need of repair? We suggest an inspection of both the exterior and the interior of your roof. Should you have any questions, or if you would prefer a professional inspection; please don't hesitate to contact Superior Roofing Systems.
Exterior Inspection
When inspecting your roof, please do not inspect your roof by walking across it. That can be dangerous. Please allow a professional to peform that level of inspection. In the meantime, a visual inspection with a pair of binoculars will do. First, find a spot without trees or other buildings blocking your view, and from there; slowly work your way around your house. Look for any of the following signs:
Be on the look out for dark, dirty looking areas on your roof. This could mean vegetation, fungus or algae growth. The darkened areas could also mean your shingles have simply outlived their usefulness. On a slate roof, dark patches could also indicate mold, but are often just discolored places from trees dripping repeatedly on the slates.
Look for shingles that are loose, cracked, blistered, split, missing or with edges starting to curl. This is another sign that they have aged and outlived their usefulness. Look for loose or exposed nails. This can mean an open hole or a place for mositure to seep into your roof and cause water damage.
If you notice blistering and peeling of your home’s outside paint, or if your shingles, sheathing, and siding show signs of decay; it could be because your attic is not adequately ventilated.
Scan for sagging either on the ridges or in the center of the roof. Check for overflowing gutters or excess water pooling near the foundation of the house. Look for rust or corroded metal and loose shingles in the valleys, plumbing vents or near chimneys. These are all signs of potential water damage.
Remember that excessive leaf debris in the valleys, plumbing vents, or near the chimney can cause problems with your roof if not dealt with promptly.
On a flat roof, look for blisters in the coating. Depressions near vent pipes are another sign to look for. Finally, look for clogged drains and separations in the flashing. All of these are signs of trouble for a flat roof.
Interior Inspection
After inspecting the exterior of your roof, continue with and inspection from inside. The obvious leak is not hard to miss, but there are warning signs you can look for.
Check for leaks and moisture in your attic or crawl space after a heavy rain. Look for dark spots in the wood, especially around vents, chimneys, and any other hole to the roof. Look for sagging decking between the rafters. These can all mean faulty or inadequate underlayment of your shingles. Stains, mold and mildew on your interior walls and ceilings are another sign of faulty underlayment. It could also mean your attic is not properly ventilated.
Watch out for outside light that can be seen from the attic . If you have a shake roof, this may not be a problem as shakes will swell and seal during the wet months. On any other type of roof however, seeing the sky through your roof is not a good sign.
Look for signs of water damage or leaking, usually in the form of water stains, or sagging ceilings. This could be from either an active leak in the roof or to collected condensation caused by poor ventilation.
If you find signs of water damage, test it to determine if it is old or a new problem. If the spot is still wet, or if it is soft when you press a screwdriver to it, the spot is a current problem. If it is dry and hard, the problem has already been taken care of and you do not need to worry about it.
Finally, look out for a spike in your energy bills. It could be another sign your attic is not properly ventilated which will cause your heat and a/c to run excessively.
At Superior Roofing Systems, we are professionals, and there are several things you need to know if you want a professional installation.
Siding Parts
Preparation is the key, and several components and trim pieces (accessories) must be in place before the first panel of siding is installed.
Corner posts: Siding panels are cut to fit, and the inside and outside corner posts cover the ends of the siding panels where they intersect at the corners of the house.
Fascia: A flat board that runs horizontally along the eaves of a roof, typically capping the ends of the roof rafters to give the roof edge a more finished look and provide a base for attaching gutters.
Channel: This is used to trim the ends of siding panels where they meet a door or window and to cover cut edges of panels around windows, soffit panels, and corner posts. This also refers to the trim itself, which is named for the letters of the alphabet they resemble (J-channel, F-channel, etc).
Siding: The outer covering of a house meant to shed water and protect from the effects of weather.
Starter strip: Installed level or parallel with the line of the house, the first panel of siding is pulled up tight to the starter strip. Since each successive panel of siding is pulled tight to the one below it, it is critical that the starter strip is installed correctly, or the siding will be crooked.
Soffit: The exposed underside of any overhead component of a building, such as arch, balcony, or beam.
Trim: The framing or edging of openings and other features on the facade or interior of a building. Light blocks, dryer vent accessories, front door cornices, and arches are all examples of trim (also known as accessories.) Trim is usually a different color or material than the adjacent walls.
Undersill trim: This is used wherever the nailing hem has been cut off a panel, usually under windows and eaves. The upper edge of the panel is dimpled with a special snaplock punch, so the panel can be snapped into place
Siding Materials
Your home is more than an investment. And with so many options to choose from, Superior Replacement Windows will help guide you to find the best option that will suit your needs.
Vinyl Siding: Made of polyvinyl chloride, commonly known as PVC, Vinyl siding is virtually maintenance free; the color does not peel, blister or flake, so there is never a need to paint. It is resistant to termite infestation and moisture buildup. Vinyl siding offers the lowest total installed cost, as well as the lowest life cycle cost over the life of the home. Add to that its ability to withstand high winds (certified up to 90 mph or higher) as well as heat in excess of 100°F and sub-zero cold, vinyl siding is a product that's attractive to many homeowners.
Insulated Vinyl Siding: Vinyl siding fused to a foam backing material, this creates an all-in-one siding and insulation system providing impact resistantance and support. By adding an additional foam insulation layer, the R-values of exterior walls are increased by R-2.9 to 3.5, depending on the profile, helping to save on heating and cooling costs.
Aluminum: First marketed 50 years ago, Aluminum siding is the precursor to vinyl siding. It is a maintenance free alternative to traditional wood siding. Aluminum siding is rot-proof, waterproof, fireproof, impervious to termites and able to withstand years of exposure to the elements. Aluminum siding may require painting overtime, and can be susceptible to dents and scratches.
Steel: Steel siding is an alternative to Aluminum siding. It offers the same protection, but because of it’s strength and durability Steel siding won’t warp or dent like Aluminum.
Fiber Cement: Fiber cement siding is composed of cement, sand, and cellulose fiber. It is ideal for homeowners who want the look of wood, but don’t want the hassles or costs associated with it. Fiber Cement siding is more durable than wood, termite resistant, and water resistant. It is also non-combustible. Fiber Cement siding is appropriate for hot and humid climates because it is resistant to rot and fungus. Fiber Cement is more expensive than vinyl siding, and may require painting every four or five years.
Engineered Wood: The scientifically engineered wood siding gives homeowners the look of real cedar while offering the durability and weather resistance of vinyl siding. With Engineered Wood siding you don’t have to worry about cracking, rotting, or termite infestation that accompanies real wood siding.
Siding Glossary
The following are industry terms for siding that every homeowner should make themselves familiar with. These terms can also be found in the glossary.
Backerboard: Any flat material fastened to the side of a house between the studs and siding to provide a surface to attach siding to.
Battens: Strips of wood placed over joints in wood siding to seal the joints.
Beveled: Clapboards that are tapered rather than cut rectangular.
Buttlock: The bottom edge of a piece of vinyl siding which locks into the previously installed panel.
Caulking: Material used to seal joints at intersections of different materials. Used with different types of siding to join the siding to pre-existing materials.
Checking: A split or crack that appears along the grain of wood siding.
Clapboard: Horizontal, overlapping wood planks.
Composition Board: Siding that is composed of weather resistant, compressed wood material.
Course: A row of siding.
Cupping: When a warp develops in wood plank siding.
Double Course: When an underlayer of shingles or shakes is covered by a new application of siding.
Face: The siding that is visible once it is installed.
Flashing: A metal or plastic strip attached to the outside of the head or side jambs to provide a weather barrier, preventing leakage between the frame and the wall.
Gable: The triangular end of a house that stretches between the eaves and the ridgeline of the roof.
Gable Vent: A vent placed in the gable of a home that increases air flow to the attic, thereby reducing heat and moisture buildup.
Lap: The overlapping of two siding panels to allow for expansion or contraction of the siding material.
Nailing Hem: The section of siding where the nail slots are located.
Overhang: The portion of the roof that extends beyond the walls of a home. The soffit or eave is the underside of an overhang.
Panel Protection: The amount that a panel of vinyl siding sticks out from the wall. You should choose the largest profile available for any siding in order to prevent weather damage to the wall of the house.
Plywood Siding: Plywood siding that comes in grooved or decorative patterns.
Scoring: The process of running a sharp object, such as a utility knife, across a siding panel without cutting all the way through. The panel can then easily be broken off cleanly along the line of scoring.
Single Course: Wood shingles or shakes applied so each course is exposed to the elements.
Square: A measurement that equals 100 square feet of siding.
Stucco: A cement, sand and water finish to a home that is water resistant. Available in a variety of finishes and styles.
Tongue and Groove: A way of connecting materials, such as wood, in which the tongue of a board is placed into the groove of the board following it.
Wall Sheathing: Sheets of plywood or wood planking used to cover the wall framework of the house.
Weep Holes: Openings cut into a siding material to provide for water runoff.
Wood Plank Siding: Rectangular wood planks that can be installed either horizontally or vertically.\
Wood shakes: Rough, thick, uneven shingles, either hand split or sawn, that can be used as a siding material.
Wood shingles: Shingles made of wood that are sawn and of uniform thickness.
You can contact Superior Roofing Systems by telephone or by web
757.490.3667 or 1.866.365.1777